But who's counting? A campus of 84 small, freestanding solar-powered cabanas, each angled for dramatic sea views, will make some travelers feel, despondently, like they are at a deluxe summer camp on the beach while others will rejoice at the simplicity, and direct engagement with nature. Simply furnished cabanas have verandas, wicker ceiling fans (no AC), and sides and ceilings made of a canvas material that rustles in the breeze like sailcloth. Guests swear by these -- or at them (depending on how they sleep.) The half-dozen cabanas perched over the water have glass floor panels that reveal the clear shallow waters underfoot. Though water sports (take a fishing tour and the chef will cook your catch for dinner) are the name of the game here, technology is nicely integrated with Wi-Fi hot spots, complimentary iPods, and cell phones to reach staff from any location. Kids under 16 stay free. www.9beaches.com. 84 cabanas. In-room: no a/c (some), safe, refrigerator, no TV, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bars, tennis court, pool, gym, beachfront, water sports, bicycles, concierge, children's programs, laundry service, public Internet, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

Buildings ringed around a great beach + restaurants overlooking the water + nice infinity-edged pool + intangible winning spirit = extremely popular resort. As a wedding and honeymoon getaway it manages to be private; for families (though most guests are couples) it remains carefree and large enough to entertain. Is it the complimentary rum swizzles, self-served from pitchers in the lobby, that sustain a jovial mood here? Not all rooms here are created equal: suites near the beach and overlooking the ocean each have a Jacuzzi tub, large walk-in shower for two, and complete entertainment system; for seclusion and tranquility, the cliff-side rooms perched above wave-washed boulders at the far end of the resort are best. All rooms have ocean views and balconies. www.thereefs.com. 45 rooms, 4 suites, 8 junior suites, 8 cottage suites. In-room: safe, dial-up. In-hotel: 3 restaurants, bars, tennis courts, pool, gym, spa, beachfront, laundry service, no-smoking rooms, minibar. AE, MC, V. 2 meals.

This little valley property is a tad off the beaten path, in a quiet residential neighborhood about a mile north of Hamilton and walking distance from a secluded beach cove. Studios are new, spacious and modern with kitchenettes; upstairs studios have balconies, and the ground-floor studios open onto tranquil, intimate gardens and a pool. The small number of rooms means you are more than likely to enjoy the good-size pool and patio all to yourself. A short bus ride can take you to Hamilton, Admiralty Park, or north-shore snorkeling sites. www.robinsnestbda.bm. 11 studio apartments. In-room: kitchen, refrigerator. In-hotel: pool. No credit cards.

Expect friendly service from long-time staff at this bright, blue-shuttered, white manor house a convenient couple of blocks from the center of Hamilton town. Inside the main house, built in 1906, three traditional rooms have 12-foot ceilings and antique and reproduction furniture, though no balconies. The two-story building behind the main house is newer and less distinguished, but set alongside a relaxing tropical garden. Rooms here have bamboo floors, and some have four-poster beds, love seats, and whirlpool baths. All rooms have either balconies or patios from which you can enjoy the garden setting and a central pool; it's easy to forget you're downtown. Rosedon has no restaurant, but a full breakfast is brought to your room or to your umbrella-shaded table. Cab fare to south-shore beaches is covered by the hotel. Mailing address: Box HM 290, Hamilton, HM AX, Bermuda. www.rosedonbermuda.com. 44 rooms. In-room: safe, refrigerator, VCR (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: room service, bar, pool, laundry service, public Internet, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Full breakfast.

Rosemont was the first hotel to corner Bermuda's self-catering niche (no restaurant or bar or beach here) with apartment-style suites: a bedroom, sitting area, kitchen, bathroom, and balcony or patio. Not much has been done to it since, however, and it is painted an sad gray color, as if in protest of the color everywhere else on the island. As it is, Rosemont offers basic rooms to corporate travelers on a budget. A penthouse suite -- a two-bedroom unit that can be converted into three rooms -- has panoramic views, balconies, and whirlpools. Downtown Hamilton is an eight-minute walk. Mailing address: Box HM 37, Hamilton, HM AX, Bermuda. www.rosemont.bm. 47 apartments. In-room: kitchen, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: pool, laundry facilities, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V.

At the top of a nearly vertical driveway, this modern B&B has views of Gibbs Hill Lighthouse and a fantastic panorama of the Great Sound. Breathtaking sunsets can be seen from the spacious, carpeted living room and from the pool area. Rooms are large, and each has a private entrance, big windows, and a terrace. Although all rooms benefit from great views, nos. 3 and 6 are popular because they overlook the Great Sound. Mailing address: Box SN 144, Southampton, SN BX, Bermuda. 4 rooms. In-room: no phone, refrigerator. In-hotel: pool. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

Two big waterslides that drop into pools are the highlight of a small water park here that makes the Wyndham the top lodging choice for visiting families. Although it has perhaps the most spectacular natural beach setting in Bermuda -- on a large horseshoe-shape lagoon, the buildings themselves are cumbersome, with dark passageways. Our readers report highly inconsistent levels of service and maintenance and it seems that even after extensive renovation, the Wyndham never really bounced back from 2003's Hurricane Fabian. Then again, complimentary children's programs, a playroom, and the Wahoo Water Park, complete with heated pools, waterfalls, slides, and swim-up bar, ensure families overlook inconsistencies. A 1,000-gallon fish tank in the main lobby area hints at the fish you'll see while snorkeling or scuba diving. Mailing address: Box HM 1070, Hamilton, HM EX, Bermuda. www.wyndhambermuda.com. 222 rooms, 30 suites. In-room: safe, refrigerator (some), VCR (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 4 restaurants, room service, bars, pools, gym, spa, beachfront, diving, water sports, concierge, children's programs (ages 4-10), laundry service, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V.

It has the goods to be the coolest resort in Bermuda: a stylish retro logo; a good restaurant; celebrity affiliations -- the property is run by actor Michael Douglas's mother and has been in her family since 1630; a breezy clubhouse lounge; superb snorkeling, and two ocean-fed pools and a heated freshwater pool. The sloping grounds have 12 cute cottages with two to eight guest rooms in each. All rooms have unobstructed ocean views and are decorated with English-floral and plaid cottons and Tommy Bahama furniture. Yet for all its winning parts, Ariel Sands can't seem to pull it together, and the overall impression can be somewhat drab. Service can be so-so and activity options lack a certain spark, like the old cement-eyesore tennis courts to one side of the beach. Mailing address: Box HM 334, Hamilton, HM BX, Bermuda. www.arielsands.com. 47 rooms, 3 suites, 2 cottages. In-room: safe, refrigerator, dial-up, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bars, tennis courts, pool, gym, spa, beachfront, water sports, concierge, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Full breakfast.

Stroll down to Aunt Nea's, and you'll be treated to the best of St. George's, a narrow winding cobblestone alley leading to the gate of a long central walkway amid formal gardens and up to the entrance of this grand home. Your hosts, Delaey Robinson and Andrea Dismont will enthusiastically guide you through their inviting 18th-century home. The enthusiasm is justified: all the Jasmine rooms and suites (some with whirlpools) have gorgeous, old-fashioned bed frames, from wicker sleigh beds to solid-oak four-posters with canopies. Aunt Nea's is within putting distance of St. George's golf course and a five-minute scooter ride from Tobacco Bay Beach and the other secluded coves. Mailing address: Box GE 96, St. George's, GE BX, Bermuda. www.auntneas.com. 12 rooms, 6 suites. In-room: kitchen (some), refrigerator, DVD (some), Wi-Fi. In-hotel: laundry service, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

Business guests will find this bright blue mansion -- the island's newest hotel -- a great value downtown. Bank executive Bernadette Footé purchased, renovated, and re-opened the hotel in late 2005 to target business travelers looking for a good value in a small upscale hotel. Suites 9-12 have fine views of the harbor across the street, and are recommended; room 9 has a hot tub and nearly 180-degree views; room 12 (for $295, a relative bargain on the island) is a grand corporate suite, with an ornamental fireplace surmounted by a 37-inch plasma screen, a king-size bed, and the dark wood and carpeting you'll find throughout the hotel. Downstairs, the comfortable breakfast room, which also looks onto the harbor, is a pleasant place to start the day. For self-service types there is a shared kitchen. www.baycity.bm. 10 rooms, 2 suites. In-room: safe, dial-up. In-hotel: bar, public Internet, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

This bright white hotel occupies the prominent corner where North Shore Road meets the town of Flatt's Village, roughly midway between Hamilton and St. George's. The nicest part is its setting: from the verandas you can see colorful boats across the street at the marina; and it's within walking distance of the village and the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo. The inexpensive apartments are small and rather outdated, with old carpets or plain white tile; generally speaking this property could use a makeover. Mailing address: Box FL 319, Flatts, FL 07, Bermuda. www.bermuda.com/brightside. 9 apartments, 4 cottages. In-room: kitchen (some), refrigerator. In-hotel: pool, public Internet. AE, MC, V.

Cambridge Beaches has a coat of arms that reads Prima Et Optima, or First and Best. The First? Yes: it's the island's oldest cottage colony. The Best? Well, if you want a pervasive sense of isolation, tranquility, and relaxed refinement, then that's a fact, too. No place uses its large setting better -- 25 acres on a peninsula near the western end of the island -- to create a sense of wandering expansiveness. Many large properties on the island are centered around one main beach, but Cambridge, has five, including beautiful Long Bay Beach and Morning Beach (with its new-for-2006 pools, waterfalls, and restaurant). The complimentary daily tea service is a civilized affair, set in a beautiful lounge overlooking Mangrove Bay. The varying sizes, styles, and locations of the cottages and rooms make for a wide range of prices. Less-expensive rooms open onto lawns and gardens, but overlook the same wide ocean. www.cambridgebeaches.com. 66 rooms, 25 suites, 3 2-bedroom cottages. In-room: safe, refrigerator, dial-up. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bars, tennis courts, pool, gym, spa, beachfront, diving, water sports, concierge, laundry service, public Internet, no-smoking rooms. AE, DC, MC, V. Full breakfast.

In a residential home on a hill a short walk from south-shore beaches in the middle of the island, the Clairfont Apartments offer quietude and lovely views across the valley to the water. You can choose between two studios or six one-bedrooms -- all with fully equipped kitchens. The four sunny upstairs units have balconies, and the downstairs apartments have patios, leading onto a communal lawn. The property welcomes a lot of families with children during the summer months and Warwickshire Long Bay Playground is within a few minutes' walk. Inexpensive monthly off-season rates start from $1,250. Early booking is recommended. Mailing address: Box WK 85, Warwick Parish, WK 02, Bermuda. www.clairfontapartments.com. 8 apartments. In-room: safe, kitchen, DVD, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: pool, laundry service. AE, MC, V.

On the Bermuda Railway Trail in the quiet western end of Southampton Parish, this family-run guesthouse is a tranquil retreat with beautiful views of the Great Sound. A full breakfast is included, and dinner can be arranged. Rooms are basic and clean, if slightly outdated; some have water views. A large swimming pool in the big backyard overlooks Jennings Bay and the ocean. Mailing address: Box SN 395, Southampton, SN BX, Bermuda. 6 rooms. In-room: refrigerator, VCR. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, no-smoking rooms. No credit cards. Full breakfast.

Among the most noteworthy aspects of this resort's 21-acre setting, one -- its caves -- was chosen to be featured in its name. (Airport Bay does sound remarkably less appealing.) The beach here is satisfactory if not stellar, and overlooks the airport directly across Castle Harbour, a sad reminder that you can't stay on this beautiful island forever. The twin caves are indeed noteworthy, as is a morning swim in Prospero's Cave which shelters a placid lagoon. If you prefer, you can swim in another underground body of water: the resort's pool. It's the center of the action here, next to an outdoor restaurant, hot tub, shuffleboard, and tennis courts. Kids marvel at the aquatic tussle of fish being fed from a small lagoon off the beach. For adults, sightseeing, scuba diving, and snorkeling cruises depart regularly from the on-site deepwater dock. www.grottobay.com. 198 rooms, 3 suites. In-room: dial-up. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, room service, bars, tennis courts, pool, gym, beachfront, diving, concierge, children's programs (ages 4-12), no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V.

The rooms here tend to be generic, but the views are amazing. Oddly tucked into a prosperous condo community high on Langton Hill just north of Hamilton, this time-share property occasionally has availabilities among its 32 suites. All rooms have sofa beds, a balcony, and TV (no cable); larger units have a refrigerator, a microwave, a toaster, and a coffeemaker. The hotel is a two-minute walk to a bus stop and a five-minute bus ride to the city center. A large outdoor pool and sun deck have great sea views. There's a golf course and a small grocery store nearby. Rooms can be snapped up for $88 in the off season (mid-November to mid-March). Mailing address: Box HM 1738, Hamilton, HM GX, Bermuda. 32 suites. In-room: refrigerator (some), dial-up. In-hotel: tennis courts, pool. AE, MC, V.

Sets of peach buildings surrounded by manicured lawns and well-tended flower beds constitute the ordered, unexciting environs of this middle-of-the-island hotel. It's a typical, if poorly situated, cottage-colony layout -- with unexciting two-story buildings replacing cottages, and a shuttle bus to the beach replacing the beach; and on this hill-blessed island filled with panoramas, there are no views here beyond the hedge. In short, besides the pool, eating, and playing tennis, there's little to do here. But then it's easy to jump on the complimentary shuttle to Elbow Beach, about five minutes away. Rooms are spacious, with either white-tile or hardwood flooring and simple wood and wicker furniture. Most rooms have a patio or balcony. Mailing address: Box PG 299, Paget, PG BX, Bermuda. www.harmonyclub.com. 68 rooms. In-room: safe, refrigerator. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, tennis courts, pool, laundry service, public Internet. AE, MC, V. Meal plans available.

Oriental rugs, polished wood floors, cathedral ceilings, and open fireplaces are elegant reminders of the 18th century, when the main house in this Relais & Châteaux resort was a private home. Guest cottages are spread out across terraced lawns. Most have a large common room with a fireplace, a library, and board games, and all have terraces. Most cottages have a kitchen, too, and a cook will arrive to prepare breakfast there every morning and then deliver it to your room. The colony has no beach of its own -- though there is a 9-hole golf course -- but guests may use the beach and facilities, including the spa, at members-only Coral Beach & Tennis Club just across the road -- a good reason to stay at Horizons. Mailing address: Box PG 198, Paget, PG BX, Bermuda. www.horizonscottages.com. 40 rooms, 5 suites. In-room: safe, kitchen (some), refrigerator (some), dial-up. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, golf course, tennis courts, pool, gym, laundry facilities, laundry service, Internet. AE, MC, V. Meal plans available.

You are welcomed to this circa-1600 house -- one of the island's oldest -- by a quaint driftwood sign above the door. "Little Pomander" has indeed modest ambitions, perhaps a natural extension of its mellow owner, Pat Harvey. The backside of the cottage has a lawn that abuts a narrow inlet of Hamilton harbor; lawn chairs are set out here and some guests make use of the BBQ. One hard-to-get room has a patio with steps down to the lawn. Another room, with water views, is divided by a large unlikely bulge -- which turns out to be the house's old wood stove. Quirkiness ends at breakfast -- with its humble selection of bagels and toast. Mailing address: Box HM 384, Hamilton, HM BX, Bermuda. 6 rooms. In-room: refrigerator, dial-up. In-hotel: no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

You have to love a hotel that takes its restaurant seriously and yet has enough sense of humor to leave a rubber duck on your bath mat. Royal Palms is a winner for having high standards, great service, and a welcoming touch, too -- fresh-from-the-garden flowers celebrate your arrival. You'll want to linger on the grounds here. The best perch might well be the front swing, from which you can survey the lush grounds, including two tall royal palms that give the hotel its name. Also wonderful is the sunny, all-glass breakfast room where you eat at 90-year-old Bermudian cedar tables. If you're looking for privacy, there are three buildings set around the gardens of the main 1903 building; many rooms here have private entrances. Mailing address: Box HM 499, Hamilton, HM CX, Bermuda. www.royalpalms.bm. 27 rooms. In-room: safe, dial-up, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, pool, laundry service, no-smoking rooms. AE, MC, V. Continental breakfast.

Innkeeper Hazel Lowe has the warmth, personality, and reputation of a rock star. Ms. Lowe's house and its cottages rest directly on a secluded bay adjoining Hamilton Harbour, a quick walk from the Hamilton ferry. You can swim here at high tide. Besides Ms. Lowe, dramatis personae here include the friendly cats Willy and Milly; two ducks; books, which are everywhere; and returning guests, who constitute 90% of visitors here. A cozy lounge inside the main entrance has a real fireplace where guests gather for cocktails and conversation. First timers, "whether they like it or not," are given insightful tips by Ms. Lowe on the best of Bermuda. Four waterside cottages have shaded patios and lounge chairs, bedrooms, sitting rooms, and full kitchens. You can fish here and cook your catch; you can read on a lawn hammock; or you can have tea with Ms. Lowe, B&B rock star. 3 rooms, 4 cottages. In-room: no phone, no TV (some). In-hotel: bar, no-smoking rooms. No credit cards. Full breakfast.

Spacious, simple, and cheerfully decorated, these apartments are ideal for families wanting quiet, inexpensive lodging near south-shore beaches and bus routes. The 14 whitewashed units include five one-bedroom apartments with full kitchens and nine studios with kitchenettes. Each has either a balcony or patio. Most can accommodate up to four people. The apartments, pool, and hot tub are encircled by lawns and shrubs, and there's a smattering of blue-and-white shade umbrellas. You can use the nearby beach and bar at Surf Side Beach Club. Mailing address: Box HM 685, Hamilton, HM CX, Bermuda. www.sandpiperbda.com. 14 apartments. In-room: safe, kitchen (some). In-hotel: pool, laundry facilities. AE, MC, V.

These two studio apartments in residential Paget don't appear on official Bermuda Department of Tourism accommodation catalogs; hence, perhaps, the name: for budget travelers who stumble upon one of these two rooms offered by Albert and Judy Corday, fortune is smiling. Judy's family has been on the island since 1612, and she welcomes return guests as part of that extended family. The real genius of this place, however, is value. Both ground-floor apartments are clean and pleasantly decorated. They have fully equipped kitchenettes and private patios that overlook the pool and yard, which is canopied in summer in the red blooms of two magnificent Poincianas. Grape Bay beach is a lovely 12-minute walk away. The home is next to the Railway Trail, and across the street from the Paget Nature Reserve. 2 apartments. In-room: safe, refrigerator. In-hotel: pool, no-smoking rooms. No credit cards.

This Bermudian cottage with three housekeeping apartments is set in an elevated residential area overlooking the Great Sound. Rooms have bright, soft furnishings and full kitchens. The cottage also has a pool, patio, and barbecue, and is very convenient to the south-shore beaches. Enviable views of both the south shore and the Great Sound extend on either side of the property. The personal attention bestowed upon guests by hosts Barbara and Eldon Raynor has brought them many repeat visitors and local hospitality awards. 3 apartments. In-room: no phone, safe, refrigerator. In-hotel: pool, no-smoking rooms. No credit cards.

Each light-pink villa in this complex has wonderful views perched over the north shore. Within the villas are one- to four-bedroom suites, each with a kitchenette and separate living and dining areas. The furnishings are traditional English style -- overstuffed chairs and couches, with carefully chosen fabrics. Walkers love being near one of the most attractive coastal stretches of the Bermuda Railway Trail. www.clearviewbermuda.com. 12 apartments. In-room: safe, kitchen, VCR (some). In-hotel: restaurant, tennis court, pools, laundry facilities, public Internet, no-smoking rooms. AE, DC, MC, V.